Alright, I am about to become a dog training nerd here and talk about something called behavior chains.
Last weekend my family and I visited my husband's extended family in Oregon for a memorial service. The day before the service, most family members were all staying at the same house (as were we), preparing for the service and visiting with one and another. A few of them had brought along their dogs.
Try as I might, I could not seem to turn off my "dog training thinking cap." This was difficult as it is my profession! I did however, try to not meddle or attempt to give too much advice on some of the naughty dog behavior I witnessed.
This brings us to behavior chains. There are two types of behavior chains: ones that we create on purpose, and ones that were created on accident. The ones that are created on purpose usually arise from teaching a dog a command or trick that involves several steps. A behavior chain is when there is a reinforcer after multiple behaviors. Just having a dog sit, then getting a treat, isn't a behavior chain. But having a dog do an agility course, is a behavior chain. He is doing several taught behaviors beofre the end reward. If we link undesired behaviors without breaking the chain, we create an accidental behavior chain.
For example, you want to teach your dog that when he hears the doorbell, that he should run to his dog bed, lie-down, be quiet and stay until you release him. You have to teach him each step individually, then put them together until the doorbell is it's own cue and laying on the bed becomes rewarding as he knows after the whole sequence he gets to get up and say hello.
The behavior chains we create on accident usually aren't behaviors we want to enforce. However, many owners that train at home or use novice trainers, will fall into the behavior chain trap.
Last weekend I saw my husband's uncle's hound dog run off repeatedly. She would literally take off the property and run down the country road to see the neighbor's livestock and start baying and making hound dog noises. He would call and call and call, send his border collie to go get her and eventually get up, and run down the road within about 10 feet of her, then she would come. At his point, he would bring her back to where he was sitting before, turn her loose again and the whole ordeal would start again. He was essentially creating a behavior chain. The dog runs off, he calls her over and over, she doesn't come until he is super close, he gets her back to his chair and she does it again. To her, it is a great big game! She loves running off and she gets to continue to run off till her heart is content. Now I did suggest to him that if she doesn't come that she needs to be tied up for a while before let loose again OR not have the gate open so she can't get loose. He replied with what a lot of owners are confused about, "I don't want to punish her for coming back." But did she come back really? How many times did he call her? How close did he get before she finally did come? Did she learn her lesson and not run off again?
A behavior chain I see with novice owners/trainers is people greetings. In my classes, I like to teach the dogs to sit before getting pet by a stranger. This avoids them jumping on the stranger or other unwanted behaviors like crotch sniffing or leash wrapping. The accidental behavior chain that can be created is owner approaches stranger, dog jumps on stranger, owner asks dog to sit, he does, then gets rewarded with a treat and pet from stranger. Now some of you may not see the flaw in this, but what was just created is a dog that thinks he should jump up, THEN sit, then get rewarded. He thinks the jumping is part of the behavior he got rewarded for. How do we prevent this? Multiple ways. First, we can be proactive and ask the dog to sit as the stranger is approaching and reward then, thus distracting the dog from jumping, and reward again for remaining seated once the stranger has left. Another approach is that if the dog does jump, the stranger leaves (taking away that reinforcer), the owner turns around and re-sets to try again (thus not enforcing a jump/sit).
Another behavior chain that makes me just cringe is something I witness at the dog park. Dogs are happily playing and then suddenly there is a fight. Now if this were me, I would break the fight up, apologize, and promptly leash my dog and leave. I am not going to reward my dog for fighting by letting the play continue after the fight has been broken up. What I see happen is fight gets separated (usually in a dangerous way), dogs are then pushed into a down position NEXT to each other, then drug over to the benches and forced to sit near each other for about 2 minutes, then are let loose again. Sometimes the fight starts again, sometimes not. But I have seen many of the same fighters, fighting again on different visits. Why do the owners do this? One owner at the park told me why those people do it (and sadly, he thought it was the correct way to handle a fight). He said the dogs were being forced to submit to each other because they were fighting over dominance. Sitting near each other later, the owners were reinforcing that the owners were in charge and that they WILL like each other. They then release their dogs to play again because they drove all the way to the park and their dogs aren't tired yet, so why go home?
Forcing a dog to lie-down next to another is not making them submit to the other dog. They aren't doing it voluntarily, so how can that even be possible? It will only make your dog think YOU are mean and scary! Having the dogs then sit next to each other doesn't MAKE them like each other. Letting them loose to play again can create a behavior chain. I fight, I lie-down, I go again! Letting the dog loose to play again is reinforcing. I don't get why the average dog owner doesn't see this.
So that is a behavior chain. Have you created any by accident with your dog that you wish to fix?
Monday, July 11, 2011
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Lucy
Having an aging dog can be difficult. For me, Lucy is my first senior dog. Growing up, there were always circumstances that meant we never had a dog past age 2. In fact, I used to call my parents "chronic animal re-homers."
There were older dogs when I was a baby that passed away that I really have no memory of and then begins the count of all the dogs that never stayed with us past age 2;
1. Bruno: St. Bernard that got "too big" and was given to a friend of my dad's were he happily lived out his days.
2. Mandy: St. Poodle that at age 2 got GDV (bloat) and passed away.
3. Missy: mini poodle that we couldn't keep when my parents divorced and we moved to a non-pet apartment.
4. Mariah: St. Poodle that stayed with my ex-step-dad when we left his place.
5. Numerous rescue/foster dogs that have been in and out.
7. Pound dogs that ended up getting re-homed to my uncles or relatives who fell in love with them and my mom couldn't say no for some reason on them taking OUR dog(s) home.
And so that brings me to Lucy......a Border Collie that I did not want and was given as a birthday gift. Our first 9 months together were rocky. I had no idea how to raise a puppy and as a highschooler, really didn't have a whole lot of interest. So she ruined my carpet in my room, ate lots of my stuff and drove me crazy. It wasn't until I got a job at a petstore that some people knocked some sense into me, I got in touch with a wonderful trainer who later became my mentor and the rest is history.
Fast forward to now. Lucy is almost 9 years old. She has had a wonderful life full of agility, flyball, sheep herding, search and rescue work, going to work with me, going on vacations, swimming, hiking, going to the dog park etc. She gets the highest quality food, bones, treats and toys and has been a fantastic dog. However, she has had her share of bad luck.
Lucy had numerous UTI's as a young dog, tore a ligament playing ball with me, knocked her sacrum out of alignment I assume from falling off agility equipment, has had two seizures, several emergency vet visits, pneumonia, the normal bouts of diarrhea and vomiting from time to time and now, I am wondering if our journey together is coming to an end.
In the past 7 or so months (really since we moved here), Lucy has had diarrhea and vomiting on and off. I assumed it was the typical bone that didn't agree with her or maybe she ate some nasty grass outside. Perhaps she gobbled her food down to fast. She was normal in every other aspect. Running, playing, eating, drinking. Then we had a month or so of regurgitation issues with her kibble. Every time I would feed her dry food it would come right back up. So with a little experimentation and thumbs up from the vet, we found that moistening her dry food before hand in a tuperware container that lives in the fridge, coupled with elevating her food, fixed the problem completely.
Then on Friday, July 1st, something happened that has never happened before. Lucy didn't want to eat. She regurgitated her pre-moistened food from dinner in the early morning hours and when it came time for breakfast, she turned up her nose. I offered her many favorites: canned, yogurt, deli meat, sausage, raw dog food and still, she walked away. As the day progressed I noticed that she was not going to the water dish at all. Between the two dogs, I normally fill the dish several times per day, and Friday was a hot day, so this was also unusual. I don't normally panic about doggie ailments since they always seem to pull out of things on their own, but this really bugged me, especially with a three day weekend coming up. So I took her into the vet.
At the vet she received IV fluids, a shot for her nausea as by now she had thrown up bile 4 times and could not keep anything down (I did eventually get her to eat a small amount of turkey before going to the vet), and we got blood work done.
Over the weekend things got a little better. She was no longer vomiting and I was able to get her to eat some canned food if I held it up to her. I also was able to get her to drink some chicken broth diluted with water.
Tuesday I got the blood results and they were a bit inconclusive minus the fact that her platelets are really low. That coupled with her other symptoms point to gastrointestinal lymphoma. Of course, the vet can't "diagnosis" that without doing further testing, but she did tell me that lymphoma, Addison's disease or IBD were her top three suspects. The blood work ruled out the other two. I don't know if she was trying to sell me false hope because she kept saying it could be a rare a-typical Addison's disease that won't show in the blood work, but will in an ultrasound.
So now it is Wednesday. In a way, she has declined. I am now having to spoon feed her the canned food and she is being very picky about what flavor she wants. She no longer is taking that much broth in. But here is the hard to understand part, the part that makes me feel like "my dog isn't sick, she will be fine." She is still happy. She wants cuddles and pets, goes outside to potty, hasn't vomited and will even play a little with her toys with me. She won't play with Lex and she is just laying around more than usual. I think this is the hardest part for me. I know that BC's and my dog in general, is very stoic. She doesn't like to let on she is sick. She will do things simply because I want her to. I bet if I took her to the park right now, she would run and fetch a ball. This fact makes it extremely difficult to judge that all so important "quality of life" factor.
The next step diagnostically, is to get an ultrasound to look for any masses or swollen adrenal glands (Addison's disease). The ultrasound is not cheap and if it is cancer, the prognosis is very bleak even with treatment. Without treatment, most dogs with lymphoma die or are euthanized within 3 weeks of the fateful day when they stop eating/drinking. With treatment, lymphoma can go into remission, but remission only lasts 3-12 months. The treatment is a weekly chemo dose for 25 weeks at the cost of $300 per dose.
I have decided to take things one day at a time. I love my dog dearly, but I can't justify spending that much money on getting a few more months with her (IF she has cancer). My plan is to keep doing what I am doing. Feed her, try to get fluids in her, let her do what she wants to do. If in 3 weeks from now, she is still in the same place as she is today, then I will get the ultrasound because by then, it is very unlikely to be lymphoma due to the survival rate. If in a few weeks she has gone more down hill, I might have to make that awful decision that every pet owner dreads and let her go peacefully.
It helps me so much to be able to write about this. To be concrete in my decision and define what I am looking for as far as when to say good-bye. I always thought that when it came time to put a dog to sleep that the dog would be obviously suffering, unable to get up, soiling itself and things along that line. If Lucy keeps up with what she is doing now, it isn't so black and white.
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There were older dogs when I was a baby that passed away that I really have no memory of and then begins the count of all the dogs that never stayed with us past age 2;
1. Bruno: St. Bernard that got "too big" and was given to a friend of my dad's were he happily lived out his days.
2. Mandy: St. Poodle that at age 2 got GDV (bloat) and passed away.
3. Missy: mini poodle that we couldn't keep when my parents divorced and we moved to a non-pet apartment.
4. Mariah: St. Poodle that stayed with my ex-step-dad when we left his place.
5. Numerous rescue/foster dogs that have been in and out.
7. Pound dogs that ended up getting re-homed to my uncles or relatives who fell in love with them and my mom couldn't say no for some reason on them taking OUR dog(s) home.
And so that brings me to Lucy......a Border Collie that I did not want and was given as a birthday gift. Our first 9 months together were rocky. I had no idea how to raise a puppy and as a highschooler, really didn't have a whole lot of interest. So she ruined my carpet in my room, ate lots of my stuff and drove me crazy. It wasn't until I got a job at a petstore that some people knocked some sense into me, I got in touch with a wonderful trainer who later became my mentor and the rest is history.
Fast forward to now. Lucy is almost 9 years old. She has had a wonderful life full of agility, flyball, sheep herding, search and rescue work, going to work with me, going on vacations, swimming, hiking, going to the dog park etc. She gets the highest quality food, bones, treats and toys and has been a fantastic dog. However, she has had her share of bad luck.
Lucy had numerous UTI's as a young dog, tore a ligament playing ball with me, knocked her sacrum out of alignment I assume from falling off agility equipment, has had two seizures, several emergency vet visits, pneumonia, the normal bouts of diarrhea and vomiting from time to time and now, I am wondering if our journey together is coming to an end.
In the past 7 or so months (really since we moved here), Lucy has had diarrhea and vomiting on and off. I assumed it was the typical bone that didn't agree with her or maybe she ate some nasty grass outside. Perhaps she gobbled her food down to fast. She was normal in every other aspect. Running, playing, eating, drinking. Then we had a month or so of regurgitation issues with her kibble. Every time I would feed her dry food it would come right back up. So with a little experimentation and thumbs up from the vet, we found that moistening her dry food before hand in a tuperware container that lives in the fridge, coupled with elevating her food, fixed the problem completely.
Then on Friday, July 1st, something happened that has never happened before. Lucy didn't want to eat. She regurgitated her pre-moistened food from dinner in the early morning hours and when it came time for breakfast, she turned up her nose. I offered her many favorites: canned, yogurt, deli meat, sausage, raw dog food and still, she walked away. As the day progressed I noticed that she was not going to the water dish at all. Between the two dogs, I normally fill the dish several times per day, and Friday was a hot day, so this was also unusual. I don't normally panic about doggie ailments since they always seem to pull out of things on their own, but this really bugged me, especially with a three day weekend coming up. So I took her into the vet.
At the vet she received IV fluids, a shot for her nausea as by now she had thrown up bile 4 times and could not keep anything down (I did eventually get her to eat a small amount of turkey before going to the vet), and we got blood work done.
Over the weekend things got a little better. She was no longer vomiting and I was able to get her to eat some canned food if I held it up to her. I also was able to get her to drink some chicken broth diluted with water.
Tuesday I got the blood results and they were a bit inconclusive minus the fact that her platelets are really low. That coupled with her other symptoms point to gastrointestinal lymphoma. Of course, the vet can't "diagnosis" that without doing further testing, but she did tell me that lymphoma, Addison's disease or IBD were her top three suspects. The blood work ruled out the other two. I don't know if she was trying to sell me false hope because she kept saying it could be a rare a-typical Addison's disease that won't show in the blood work, but will in an ultrasound.
So now it is Wednesday. In a way, she has declined. I am now having to spoon feed her the canned food and she is being very picky about what flavor she wants. She no longer is taking that much broth in. But here is the hard to understand part, the part that makes me feel like "my dog isn't sick, she will be fine." She is still happy. She wants cuddles and pets, goes outside to potty, hasn't vomited and will even play a little with her toys with me. She won't play with Lex and she is just laying around more than usual. I think this is the hardest part for me. I know that BC's and my dog in general, is very stoic. She doesn't like to let on she is sick. She will do things simply because I want her to. I bet if I took her to the park right now, she would run and fetch a ball. This fact makes it extremely difficult to judge that all so important "quality of life" factor.
The next step diagnostically, is to get an ultrasound to look for any masses or swollen adrenal glands (Addison's disease). The ultrasound is not cheap and if it is cancer, the prognosis is very bleak even with treatment. Without treatment, most dogs with lymphoma die or are euthanized within 3 weeks of the fateful day when they stop eating/drinking. With treatment, lymphoma can go into remission, but remission only lasts 3-12 months. The treatment is a weekly chemo dose for 25 weeks at the cost of $300 per dose.
I have decided to take things one day at a time. I love my dog dearly, but I can't justify spending that much money on getting a few more months with her (IF she has cancer). My plan is to keep doing what I am doing. Feed her, try to get fluids in her, let her do what she wants to do. If in 3 weeks from now, she is still in the same place as she is today, then I will get the ultrasound because by then, it is very unlikely to be lymphoma due to the survival rate. If in a few weeks she has gone more down hill, I might have to make that awful decision that every pet owner dreads and let her go peacefully.
It helps me so much to be able to write about this. To be concrete in my decision and define what I am looking for as far as when to say good-bye. I always thought that when it came time to put a dog to sleep that the dog would be obviously suffering, unable to get up, soiling itself and things along that line. If Lucy keeps up with what she is doing now, it isn't so black and white.
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Class Offerings
I currently offer several types of classes in multiple locations.
1. Petco: I teach 6 classes per week at the Concord Petco at various times and days. The classes offered currently are Puppy I, Puppy II, Adult I and Adult II. The cost for all the Petco classes is $110 for 6 weeks.
Puppy I: this class is designed for young puppies that have 2 sets of shots. The class focus is less on commands and more on socializing with other puppies and people, going over potty training issues and crate training and learning good puppy manners such as not mouthing, mounting, leash biting, barking for attention etc. I do teach the puppies to sit, down, do a basic leave-it, watch, stay for a food dish, sit for petting and start leash walking skills.
Puppy II: is designed for older puppies or ones that have graduated from Puppy I. The class focus is more on commands than problem solving. I make sure that the puppies can do all of the above in Puppy I and move on to a more formal stay, wait at the door, a beginning heel, polite people greetings, passing other dogs on leash nicely, more owner focus, coming when called, take-it and drop-it, toy drive, a more advanced leave-it and any other issues that may come up.
Adult I: is designed for dogs over 11 months that have had zero basic training. This class is similar to Puppy I and Puppy II rolled together. Adult dogs may have some behavior issues different from puppies or just a more severe form of the same issues such as, jumping up excessively, pulling hard on the leash, straining to see other dogs, lack of focus on owners etc. In Adult I I teach all the dogs to sit, down, sit, stand, stay, leave-it, heel, come, sit for petting and nose targeting.
Adult II: is considered to be the intermediate course. It build on Adult I and I tend to go at the pace of the dogs in the class. We strengthen previously taught behaviors and add new ones when the dogs are ready. New behaviors may include: go to mat, heel off-leash, recall past other dogs, side-by-side stays, distance downs (drop on recall), retrieval and a few fun tricks.
Every dog progresses at a different rate, so it is my philosophy to go at the rate of each dog. I don't mind if one dog isn't ready for stay and is working on other commands while I have other dogs doing stays. I like to say that I am not a cookie cutter trainer. The down side of this is that when outsiders watch my class, they sometimes are confused that all the dogs are not preforming the same behaviors. Dogs are not robots though!
2. My group classes: I used to only do private training outside of Petco, but I found a need for a different type of group class that Petco does not offer.
Park Class: I currently offer a 4 week series for $100 at Newhall Park. The class is an intense focus on 4 core commands; leave-it, heel, stay and recall. All of the dogs that I have enrolled are previous clients and I know that their dogs can already do the basic level of the commands so we don't have to waste our time with sits, downs and all the baby steps. At the end of the 4 weeks, all of the dogs thus far, have been able to leave tasty tidbits I drop like cheese or chicken treats, leave other dogs walking and joggers and leave the geese in the nearby pond! At the end all dogs have a much better on leash heel, some can do an off leash heel and all of the dogs had stellar side-by-side stays and recalls. The advantage of this class versus Petco is numerous.
- I know all of the dogs coming in so there are no surprises in temperament.
- We all start and finish at the same time without any people signing up in the middle of our series.
- There is ample space to do exercises and drills.
- We don't have to worry about shoppers interrupting us.
- We have a more "real world" feel as we are outside and have many distractions available to work with a short walk away.
- It is so nice being outside in this wonderful weather!
3. Private training: I do offer private training in your home or at a decided location. Most of my private training clients have reactive dogs or young puppies that cannot start classes yet. A few just needed a jump start on commands before being comfortable in a class setting and a few did some sessions after group classes to sharpen some of their skills. Private training can really cover whatever you want since you get to dictate the lesson! The downside of that is sometimes that can create holes in learning since we aren't following a given course. Private training is more costly. I charge $45-50 per hour.
Classes waiting to be offered
I have several classes that I want to offer, that I am awaiting interest in.
1. About Town: do you want to be able to take your dog with you down busy streets? Would you like to enjoy a lunch at an outdoor cafe and have your dog lie politely under the table? Do you want to take your dog on vacations and visits to see friends and have all go smoothly? That is what the "About Town" class is all about. It will be a 4 week series for $100 and cap at 4 dogs. Each week we will go to a different location such as a coffee shop, cafe, home depot, park for a picnic or city center. The ideal is that the dogs will learn to down-stay on a mat or towel while you eat or chat, that the dogs can heel nicely in a variety of public settings with associated distractions and be stress-free during all of the different outings. The first class will take place at a park to go over teaching the mat behavior and heeling and assessing the dogs stress level and learning how to make your dog more comfortable and picking/choosing appropriate places to take him.
2. Tricks: I love teaching my dogs tricks, but not all owners see this as a class that they want to invest in. The class would take place at Newhall and run for 4 weeks for $100. In the class, clickers are recommended, but not required. Tricks taught will include: spin, beg-up, high-five, wave, roll-over, play dead, crawl, weave between the legs, and possibly more depending on how far we get and the physical abilities of each dog. If you have seen my dogs you know that they can do all the above plus quite a few more that I am capable of teaching to any dog that has the physical ability. Some dogs for example, cannot bounce in the air, jump into their owners arms or turn off light switches due to their size!
3. Canine Good Citizen Prep Class: the CGC test is a test offered by AKC that encompasses "what every good dog should know." The prep class is designed to make sure your dog knows all these things and can pass the test. 4 weeks, $100 at Newhall. The test itself is 10 items and costs $10 to take. People are more than welcome to simply take the test and see if they pass. Tests can be taken by appointment.
Test Items:
1. Accepting a friendly stranger: dog must not show any fear or be aggressive to a stranger approaching.
2. Sit politely for petting: dog must remain seated to be pet by said stranger.
3. Loose leash walking: dog must be able to walk nicely on a leash (without prong collar, choke chains, or no-pull harness) and make several different turns with owner.
4. Walking through a crowd: when walking past people, dog cannot show too much interest or be rude and jump/leash wrap the people.
5. Tolerating another dog: dog will pass another leashed dog and not be overly excited or display reactiveness.
6. Grooming and appearance: dog will allow me to brush and exam him as a vet or groomer would.
7. 20 foot stay with return to dog.
8. 20 foot stay with recall.
9. Reaction to a distraction such as a ball bouncing or jogger.
10. Supervised separation: I take the dog for 3 minutes without you and he cannot display any moderate or severe separation anxiety.
Why take the CGC test? It is a prerequisite to therapy dog work and some other activities. It can lower home owners and renters insurance or allow your dog into a place that may have not. My landlord did not take dogs, but he did when I told them they have their CGC and faxed their certificates! There are some places such as doggie day cares, or parks or trails that only allow CGC dogs. I personally did it because I love to have their certificates framed on the wall and I feel proud that they passed. It is a testament to our training together.
If you are interested in any of the above classes, you can e-mail me at ally@tailoreddogtraining.com or check out my website: http://www.tailoreddogtraining.com/
1. Petco: I teach 6 classes per week at the Concord Petco at various times and days. The classes offered currently are Puppy I, Puppy II, Adult I and Adult II. The cost for all the Petco classes is $110 for 6 weeks.
Puppy I: this class is designed for young puppies that have 2 sets of shots. The class focus is less on commands and more on socializing with other puppies and people, going over potty training issues and crate training and learning good puppy manners such as not mouthing, mounting, leash biting, barking for attention etc. I do teach the puppies to sit, down, do a basic leave-it, watch, stay for a food dish, sit for petting and start leash walking skills.
Puppy II: is designed for older puppies or ones that have graduated from Puppy I. The class focus is more on commands than problem solving. I make sure that the puppies can do all of the above in Puppy I and move on to a more formal stay, wait at the door, a beginning heel, polite people greetings, passing other dogs on leash nicely, more owner focus, coming when called, take-it and drop-it, toy drive, a more advanced leave-it and any other issues that may come up.
Adult I: is designed for dogs over 11 months that have had zero basic training. This class is similar to Puppy I and Puppy II rolled together. Adult dogs may have some behavior issues different from puppies or just a more severe form of the same issues such as, jumping up excessively, pulling hard on the leash, straining to see other dogs, lack of focus on owners etc. In Adult I I teach all the dogs to sit, down, sit, stand, stay, leave-it, heel, come, sit for petting and nose targeting.
Adult II: is considered to be the intermediate course. It build on Adult I and I tend to go at the pace of the dogs in the class. We strengthen previously taught behaviors and add new ones when the dogs are ready. New behaviors may include: go to mat, heel off-leash, recall past other dogs, side-by-side stays, distance downs (drop on recall), retrieval and a few fun tricks.
Every dog progresses at a different rate, so it is my philosophy to go at the rate of each dog. I don't mind if one dog isn't ready for stay and is working on other commands while I have other dogs doing stays. I like to say that I am not a cookie cutter trainer. The down side of this is that when outsiders watch my class, they sometimes are confused that all the dogs are not preforming the same behaviors. Dogs are not robots though!
2. My group classes: I used to only do private training outside of Petco, but I found a need for a different type of group class that Petco does not offer.
Park Class: I currently offer a 4 week series for $100 at Newhall Park. The class is an intense focus on 4 core commands; leave-it, heel, stay and recall. All of the dogs that I have enrolled are previous clients and I know that their dogs can already do the basic level of the commands so we don't have to waste our time with sits, downs and all the baby steps. At the end of the 4 weeks, all of the dogs thus far, have been able to leave tasty tidbits I drop like cheese or chicken treats, leave other dogs walking and joggers and leave the geese in the nearby pond! At the end all dogs have a much better on leash heel, some can do an off leash heel and all of the dogs had stellar side-by-side stays and recalls. The advantage of this class versus Petco is numerous.
- I know all of the dogs coming in so there are no surprises in temperament.
- We all start and finish at the same time without any people signing up in the middle of our series.
- There is ample space to do exercises and drills.
- We don't have to worry about shoppers interrupting us.
- We have a more "real world" feel as we are outside and have many distractions available to work with a short walk away.
- It is so nice being outside in this wonderful weather!
3. Private training: I do offer private training in your home or at a decided location. Most of my private training clients have reactive dogs or young puppies that cannot start classes yet. A few just needed a jump start on commands before being comfortable in a class setting and a few did some sessions after group classes to sharpen some of their skills. Private training can really cover whatever you want since you get to dictate the lesson! The downside of that is sometimes that can create holes in learning since we aren't following a given course. Private training is more costly. I charge $45-50 per hour.
Classes waiting to be offered
I have several classes that I want to offer, that I am awaiting interest in.
1. About Town: do you want to be able to take your dog with you down busy streets? Would you like to enjoy a lunch at an outdoor cafe and have your dog lie politely under the table? Do you want to take your dog on vacations and visits to see friends and have all go smoothly? That is what the "About Town" class is all about. It will be a 4 week series for $100 and cap at 4 dogs. Each week we will go to a different location such as a coffee shop, cafe, home depot, park for a picnic or city center. The ideal is that the dogs will learn to down-stay on a mat or towel while you eat or chat, that the dogs can heel nicely in a variety of public settings with associated distractions and be stress-free during all of the different outings. The first class will take place at a park to go over teaching the mat behavior and heeling and assessing the dogs stress level and learning how to make your dog more comfortable and picking/choosing appropriate places to take him.
2. Tricks: I love teaching my dogs tricks, but not all owners see this as a class that they want to invest in. The class would take place at Newhall and run for 4 weeks for $100. In the class, clickers are recommended, but not required. Tricks taught will include: spin, beg-up, high-five, wave, roll-over, play dead, crawl, weave between the legs, and possibly more depending on how far we get and the physical abilities of each dog. If you have seen my dogs you know that they can do all the above plus quite a few more that I am capable of teaching to any dog that has the physical ability. Some dogs for example, cannot bounce in the air, jump into their owners arms or turn off light switches due to their size!
3. Canine Good Citizen Prep Class: the CGC test is a test offered by AKC that encompasses "what every good dog should know." The prep class is designed to make sure your dog knows all these things and can pass the test. 4 weeks, $100 at Newhall. The test itself is 10 items and costs $10 to take. People are more than welcome to simply take the test and see if they pass. Tests can be taken by appointment.
Test Items:
1. Accepting a friendly stranger: dog must not show any fear or be aggressive to a stranger approaching.
2. Sit politely for petting: dog must remain seated to be pet by said stranger.
3. Loose leash walking: dog must be able to walk nicely on a leash (without prong collar, choke chains, or no-pull harness) and make several different turns with owner.
4. Walking through a crowd: when walking past people, dog cannot show too much interest or be rude and jump/leash wrap the people.
5. Tolerating another dog: dog will pass another leashed dog and not be overly excited or display reactiveness.
6. Grooming and appearance: dog will allow me to brush and exam him as a vet or groomer would.
7. 20 foot stay with return to dog.
8. 20 foot stay with recall.
9. Reaction to a distraction such as a ball bouncing or jogger.
10. Supervised separation: I take the dog for 3 minutes without you and he cannot display any moderate or severe separation anxiety.
Why take the CGC test? It is a prerequisite to therapy dog work and some other activities. It can lower home owners and renters insurance or allow your dog into a place that may have not. My landlord did not take dogs, but he did when I told them they have their CGC and faxed their certificates! There are some places such as doggie day cares, or parks or trails that only allow CGC dogs. I personally did it because I love to have their certificates framed on the wall and I feel proud that they passed. It is a testament to our training together.
If you are interested in any of the above classes, you can e-mail me at ally@tailoreddogtraining.com or check out my website: http://www.tailoreddogtraining.com/
Continued Training
Today I met a new prospective client that got me thinking about how few people continue to enroll their dog in training classes. This lady had two dogs; an older certified therapy dog that had done almost 10 years of dog training classes and a brand new 2 year old shelter terrier. She told me an amazing story about how her older dog was a rescue from ARF and was reactive. After a year or so of private training she started basic group classes. She took classes at several different facilities, wanting to offer her dog a variety of experiences and distractions. After a year of basic classes, she moved on to advanced. Then she began sampling tricks classes, freestyle dance, agility and toying with the idea of having her dog become a certified therapy dog. It took many years of work, but he did become certified, which is amazing since he was originally a reactive dog.
Turns out she kept hearing my name mentioned and sought to learn more about me. Even though she has obviously had many relationships with trainers older than myself, she enrolled in one of my group classes today with her new dog. I feel so privileged to work with a dedicated owner that sees training as a life-long endeavour. I hope that I will exceed her expectations and that she will continue on with me and take all the classes I offer.
Which brings me back to the fact that an owner that views training classes as a life-time "thing" is rare. Many of my clients take a 6 week course and then venture out on their own. A good percentage do a second 6 week course, but not many go on to do anything more after 12 weeks of training.
In Oregon, when I taught flyball, I did have some of my prior clients take a few flyball courses. I noticed the same pattern. Some did the 8 weeks and decided it was "too much work," or "not for them." A very small bunch kept rolling on with classes until we stopped offering them due to me moving. One person made the commitment to find another group to practice with after I left (and that person is one of my best friends!).
I know that the majority of the dogs that just did the basic 6 weeks, never went on to take classes from another trainer because I pet sat many of them, or we stayed in contact. The point is, that never were the people unsatisfied with my training classes, they just didn't see a point in learning more when they were happy with what their dog had accomplished thus far. However, there are many reasons why it is a fantastic idea to keep doing classes!
1. Classes keep your dog sharp on his skills.
A dog/owner team that has to practice each week isn't going to fall into the trap of getting lazy and forgetting commands.
2. Keeps dogs socialized around dogs.
When dogs are around dogs regularly in a class setting versus a dog park setting, it teaches them that they can simply be around other dogs without having to engage with them. I have done a ton of classes and activities with my own dogs. As a result, they know that dogs are cool and that they can say hello when I tell them they can and that otherwise it is more rewarding to focus on me. A truly socialized dog doesn't mob dogs and want to "say hi," to them all, but instead acknowledges their presence and gets back to work.
3. Keeps dog social with people.
A bonus with training is that all dogs are accompanied by their owners! These owners come from all walks of life and range in age, ethnicity, frame, and personality. When exposed to strangers in a positive environment, dogs become more accepting of strange people in general. While an owner of an exuberant lab may find this unnecessary as her dog loves everyone as it is, an owner of a meek chihuahua or shy aussie greatly benefit from having these "dog people" on hand during class to help overcome any fear of strangers their dog may have. The owner of the happy lab will get practice on polite people greetings though!
4. It is fun!
Taking classes with you dog is fun. It is an opportunity to bond with your dog and teach her new things. I know I personally loved the time I used to spend herding sheep with my two. Even the hour drive there and back was enjoyable since it gave me a break from everyday life. When I took obedience classes with Lucy, I always enjoyed showing off her skills when I had worked especially hard on something.
5. Classes are mentally stimulating and tiring for your dog.
Ever heard the phrase, "A good dog is a tired dog."? Well, I can say that is true. Obedience classes require a dog to focus and learn, thus using up mental energy. There is quite a bit of literature out there that suggests mental stimulation is actually more tiring than physical exercise. 1 hour of class can have a dog beat for the night, whereas 1 hour at the park and your dog is wanting more a few hours later!
6. You can make great friends and connections.
A lot of my clients hit it off and become friends thanks to dog class. I have even had people become "clients" of one and other. One client met her future realtor via dog class, another got information from an owner about their dog breeder and later got a puppy from said breeder. I personally have made some great friends as well!
7. You will have an awesome dog.
If you continue to take classes your dog will be, well, awesome! You will be the envy of the neighborhood and your friends. Prepare yourself to hear comments like, "Wow, I wish my dog was that well behaved!" and "Hey, can you train my dog to be like yours?" You may also find places welcoming your nice dog that may not otherwise be dog friendly.
8. You will be really happy.
In the end, if your dog is happy, you are happy. Having a well behaved dog puts a smile on my face almost everyday.
It is a joy to have my dogs around and know that I can take them most anywhere, trust them with baby toys, trust them with other dogs etc. They have stayed at hotels, gone on long trips, ridden Amtrak, Lucy has been to Costco and some other stores and even a few restaurants. Flyball tournaments and agility trials go off without a hitch. I have taken them to BBQs, swim parties, and get togethers with no problems. They can run on the beach off-leash, hike and go to work with me. Having well trained dogs is awesome.
I hope that you all can see the wonderful possibilities that come with having a well trained dog. My classes are not limited to just basic and intermediate. I also offer classes at a local park and do private training. I have several classes that I am just waiting for interest in to start that offers more for the advanced dogs. I will post a description in another post.
Turns out she kept hearing my name mentioned and sought to learn more about me. Even though she has obviously had many relationships with trainers older than myself, she enrolled in one of my group classes today with her new dog. I feel so privileged to work with a dedicated owner that sees training as a life-long endeavour. I hope that I will exceed her expectations and that she will continue on with me and take all the classes I offer.
Which brings me back to the fact that an owner that views training classes as a life-time "thing" is rare. Many of my clients take a 6 week course and then venture out on their own. A good percentage do a second 6 week course, but not many go on to do anything more after 12 weeks of training.
In Oregon, when I taught flyball, I did have some of my prior clients take a few flyball courses. I noticed the same pattern. Some did the 8 weeks and decided it was "too much work," or "not for them." A very small bunch kept rolling on with classes until we stopped offering them due to me moving. One person made the commitment to find another group to practice with after I left (and that person is one of my best friends!).
I know that the majority of the dogs that just did the basic 6 weeks, never went on to take classes from another trainer because I pet sat many of them, or we stayed in contact. The point is, that never were the people unsatisfied with my training classes, they just didn't see a point in learning more when they were happy with what their dog had accomplished thus far. However, there are many reasons why it is a fantastic idea to keep doing classes!
1. Classes keep your dog sharp on his skills.
A dog/owner team that has to practice each week isn't going to fall into the trap of getting lazy and forgetting commands.
2. Keeps dogs socialized around dogs.
When dogs are around dogs regularly in a class setting versus a dog park setting, it teaches them that they can simply be around other dogs without having to engage with them. I have done a ton of classes and activities with my own dogs. As a result, they know that dogs are cool and that they can say hello when I tell them they can and that otherwise it is more rewarding to focus on me. A truly socialized dog doesn't mob dogs and want to "say hi," to them all, but instead acknowledges their presence and gets back to work.
3. Keeps dog social with people.
A bonus with training is that all dogs are accompanied by their owners! These owners come from all walks of life and range in age, ethnicity, frame, and personality. When exposed to strangers in a positive environment, dogs become more accepting of strange people in general. While an owner of an exuberant lab may find this unnecessary as her dog loves everyone as it is, an owner of a meek chihuahua or shy aussie greatly benefit from having these "dog people" on hand during class to help overcome any fear of strangers their dog may have. The owner of the happy lab will get practice on polite people greetings though!
4. It is fun!
Taking classes with you dog is fun. It is an opportunity to bond with your dog and teach her new things. I know I personally loved the time I used to spend herding sheep with my two. Even the hour drive there and back was enjoyable since it gave me a break from everyday life. When I took obedience classes with Lucy, I always enjoyed showing off her skills when I had worked especially hard on something.
5. Classes are mentally stimulating and tiring for your dog.
Ever heard the phrase, "A good dog is a tired dog."? Well, I can say that is true. Obedience classes require a dog to focus and learn, thus using up mental energy. There is quite a bit of literature out there that suggests mental stimulation is actually more tiring than physical exercise. 1 hour of class can have a dog beat for the night, whereas 1 hour at the park and your dog is wanting more a few hours later!
6. You can make great friends and connections.
A lot of my clients hit it off and become friends thanks to dog class. I have even had people become "clients" of one and other. One client met her future realtor via dog class, another got information from an owner about their dog breeder and later got a puppy from said breeder. I personally have made some great friends as well!
7. You will have an awesome dog.
If you continue to take classes your dog will be, well, awesome! You will be the envy of the neighborhood and your friends. Prepare yourself to hear comments like, "Wow, I wish my dog was that well behaved!" and "Hey, can you train my dog to be like yours?" You may also find places welcoming your nice dog that may not otherwise be dog friendly.
8. You will be really happy.
In the end, if your dog is happy, you are happy. Having a well behaved dog puts a smile on my face almost everyday.
It is a joy to have my dogs around and know that I can take them most anywhere, trust them with baby toys, trust them with other dogs etc. They have stayed at hotels, gone on long trips, ridden Amtrak, Lucy has been to Costco and some other stores and even a few restaurants. Flyball tournaments and agility trials go off without a hitch. I have taken them to BBQs, swim parties, and get togethers with no problems. They can run on the beach off-leash, hike and go to work with me. Having well trained dogs is awesome.
I hope that you all can see the wonderful possibilities that come with having a well trained dog. My classes are not limited to just basic and intermediate. I also offer classes at a local park and do private training. I have several classes that I am just waiting for interest in to start that offers more for the advanced dogs. I will post a description in another post.
Monday, June 13, 2011
Separation Anxiety
This is a big topic, and I hope I can do it justice without writing a novel! There are quite a few books already out there that address treating dogs with separation anxiety. Animal Behaviorist Patricia McConnell, has a book called "I'll be Home Soon" http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/product/dog-separation-anxiety . Nicole Wilde also has a book called "Don't Leave me." http://www.nj.com/pets/index.ssf/2011/03/dont_leave_me_new_book_provide.html
So what is separation anxiety? Well, it is basically when a dog panics when he is left alone. It can be so extreme that the dog panics when left with other people, but only wants his owner. The symptoms of this "disorder" range widely. Most experts agree that the worst happens within 30 minutes of the owner's departure. Some dogs may pace, get in the window looking for mom/dad, whine, bark, and circle. A moderate case may mean the dog salivates, destroys something trying to get out or rips up something that reminds them off the owner (usually because it is comforting, not because they are punishing their owner). A more extreme case may mean the dog defecates, urinates, vomits, and works himself up so much that he is a mess when you return home.
Prevention
The best prevention for SA is to not set a new dog/puppy up that you will be home all the time. So many owners get their new pup during a holiday or vacation time to spend ample time pottying training etc. When the owner returns to work the following week, the pup is confused and upset, and this often results in the beginnings of SA. Of course, when getting an adult shelter dog, they may already have SA, so prevention may be too late. I still recommend owners of shelter dogs not set themselves up by staying home the first 48 hours with the dog. Go out, get something to eat, go to the grocery store. The new dog needs to know that people leaving is perfectly normal.
Why?
Why do dogs develop SA in the first place? Dogs are social creatures and we all know that dogs have an exaggerated view of time. Most dogs don't really have a life outside of their owner(s) if you think about it. They rely on us for food, water, shelter, fun, socialization etc. When we leave, some dogs simply don't know what to do with themselves. Normal, adjusted dogs, generally sleep when their owners are gone. Some dogs play with a stuffed food toy or their dog toys. Some dogs play with each other. If you want to know what your dog does when you are gone, set up a web cam. It is quite interesting to see what they do in your absence!
Treatment
Depending on the level of SA, treatment ranges. First step is learning how to read your dog's anxiety level. This is important because you need to determine if he gets anxious when you are preparing to leave. Does he start to whine, pace, drool, look wide-eyed when you pick up your keys and put your shoes on? If so, then you need to desensitize him to leaving rituals.
Leaving Rituals
We all do certain tasks before we leave the house. Grab keys, shoes, wallet, purse or bag, maybe shut off some doors, say good-bye to others in the house or the dog. If the dog starts to get upset with these signals, the owner basically needs to make those signals mean nothing. This means picking up the keys, and setting them down numerous times per day without leaving. Putting your shoes on and going out the door only to come right back in. Make it so the dog doesn't see those tasks as a predictor of you leaving him behind.
Next step is finding out what he does when you are gone. Some dogs don't have SA, they are just young puppies that are destructive and bored and having a party while you are gone. How do you tell the difference then? If your dog doesn't seem to care when you leave and is in fine condition when you get home minus a destuffed couch, it probably isn't SA. In that case, I would recommend confining the little destructo to a crate or pen until he grows out of that phase. Setting up a web cam is very helpful in determining to what extent the dog is panicking (if at all). You probably don't need a web cam if your dog is frantic when you leave and when you come home he is soiled and stressed to know that he has SA.
Location
Where you leave the dog is important. Some dogs with SA get more upset when they see their owner leave and have access to the door/window. These dogs are safer and happier when crated or penned elsewhere. On the flip-side, some dogs freak out at the notion of being contained and do better when left out. You need to experiment to see what works best for your dog.
Distractions
One of the best ways to combat SA is with distractions. Giving your dog food stuffed toys, brain toys etc. are a great way to get his mind off the fact that you are gone. If you find the food toys untouched when you get home, then he is too stressed to eat and you will need to do some training as well before the distraction will help.
Training
Similar to the desensitizing to the leaving rituals, many families that have SA dogs need to practice leaving their dogs for very very short periods of time and returning promptly. This means you start by going out the door for 30 seconds or less, then come back in. You gradually work up to 30 mins, then add 30 min segments at a time. This is a slow process, don't rush it. If you cannot be home during the week to do this, then you need to work on it every weekend. With time, your weeks will get better as well.
Returning home
Most books will tell you to keep the comings and goings very low-key. I know it is fun to come home and rush your dog as he goes bonkers to see you, but dogs with SA are so worked up to see their owner again that this can exacerbate the situation. The owner needs to be relaxed and relay that feeling to the dog that it was no big deal that he left.
Medication
Some dogs may need medication. Don't feel ashamed if this happens to you. Before using pharmaceuticals, there is a wide range of homeopathic drugs and products to try such as L-Theanine, Rescue Remedy, Pet Naturals of Vermont Calming Aid, a Calming cap, anxiety wrap or thunder shirt.
Alternatives
There are many people out there that use a dog walker, or doggie day care because their dog has SA. Some owners have great jobs that their dogs can come with them to work. Very very rarely I have heard of a dog being re-homed to another home where someone is home at all times.
Hopefully that was a general guide and starting point for those dealing with separation anxiety. If you need further assistance, don't hesitate to contact me for a session or e-mail consult. Remember to never punish a dog for having SA. He doesn't have it by choice and he needs help to realize you leaving isn't the end of the world!
So what is separation anxiety? Well, it is basically when a dog panics when he is left alone. It can be so extreme that the dog panics when left with other people, but only wants his owner. The symptoms of this "disorder" range widely. Most experts agree that the worst happens within 30 minutes of the owner's departure. Some dogs may pace, get in the window looking for mom/dad, whine, bark, and circle. A moderate case may mean the dog salivates, destroys something trying to get out or rips up something that reminds them off the owner (usually because it is comforting, not because they are punishing their owner). A more extreme case may mean the dog defecates, urinates, vomits, and works himself up so much that he is a mess when you return home.
Prevention
The best prevention for SA is to not set a new dog/puppy up that you will be home all the time. So many owners get their new pup during a holiday or vacation time to spend ample time pottying training etc. When the owner returns to work the following week, the pup is confused and upset, and this often results in the beginnings of SA. Of course, when getting an adult shelter dog, they may already have SA, so prevention may be too late. I still recommend owners of shelter dogs not set themselves up by staying home the first 48 hours with the dog. Go out, get something to eat, go to the grocery store. The new dog needs to know that people leaving is perfectly normal.
Why?
Why do dogs develop SA in the first place? Dogs are social creatures and we all know that dogs have an exaggerated view of time. Most dogs don't really have a life outside of their owner(s) if you think about it. They rely on us for food, water, shelter, fun, socialization etc. When we leave, some dogs simply don't know what to do with themselves. Normal, adjusted dogs, generally sleep when their owners are gone. Some dogs play with a stuffed food toy or their dog toys. Some dogs play with each other. If you want to know what your dog does when you are gone, set up a web cam. It is quite interesting to see what they do in your absence!
Treatment
Depending on the level of SA, treatment ranges. First step is learning how to read your dog's anxiety level. This is important because you need to determine if he gets anxious when you are preparing to leave. Does he start to whine, pace, drool, look wide-eyed when you pick up your keys and put your shoes on? If so, then you need to desensitize him to leaving rituals.
Leaving Rituals
We all do certain tasks before we leave the house. Grab keys, shoes, wallet, purse or bag, maybe shut off some doors, say good-bye to others in the house or the dog. If the dog starts to get upset with these signals, the owner basically needs to make those signals mean nothing. This means picking up the keys, and setting them down numerous times per day without leaving. Putting your shoes on and going out the door only to come right back in. Make it so the dog doesn't see those tasks as a predictor of you leaving him behind.
Next step is finding out what he does when you are gone. Some dogs don't have SA, they are just young puppies that are destructive and bored and having a party while you are gone. How do you tell the difference then? If your dog doesn't seem to care when you leave and is in fine condition when you get home minus a destuffed couch, it probably isn't SA. In that case, I would recommend confining the little destructo to a crate or pen until he grows out of that phase. Setting up a web cam is very helpful in determining to what extent the dog is panicking (if at all). You probably don't need a web cam if your dog is frantic when you leave and when you come home he is soiled and stressed to know that he has SA.
Location
Where you leave the dog is important. Some dogs with SA get more upset when they see their owner leave and have access to the door/window. These dogs are safer and happier when crated or penned elsewhere. On the flip-side, some dogs freak out at the notion of being contained and do better when left out. You need to experiment to see what works best for your dog.
Distractions
One of the best ways to combat SA is with distractions. Giving your dog food stuffed toys, brain toys etc. are a great way to get his mind off the fact that you are gone. If you find the food toys untouched when you get home, then he is too stressed to eat and you will need to do some training as well before the distraction will help.
Training
Similar to the desensitizing to the leaving rituals, many families that have SA dogs need to practice leaving their dogs for very very short periods of time and returning promptly. This means you start by going out the door for 30 seconds or less, then come back in. You gradually work up to 30 mins, then add 30 min segments at a time. This is a slow process, don't rush it. If you cannot be home during the week to do this, then you need to work on it every weekend. With time, your weeks will get better as well.
Returning home
Most books will tell you to keep the comings and goings very low-key. I know it is fun to come home and rush your dog as he goes bonkers to see you, but dogs with SA are so worked up to see their owner again that this can exacerbate the situation. The owner needs to be relaxed and relay that feeling to the dog that it was no big deal that he left.
Medication
Some dogs may need medication. Don't feel ashamed if this happens to you. Before using pharmaceuticals, there is a wide range of homeopathic drugs and products to try such as L-Theanine, Rescue Remedy, Pet Naturals of Vermont Calming Aid, a Calming cap, anxiety wrap or thunder shirt.
Alternatives
There are many people out there that use a dog walker, or doggie day care because their dog has SA. Some owners have great jobs that their dogs can come with them to work. Very very rarely I have heard of a dog being re-homed to another home where someone is home at all times.
Hopefully that was a general guide and starting point for those dealing with separation anxiety. If you need further assistance, don't hesitate to contact me for a session or e-mail consult. Remember to never punish a dog for having SA. He doesn't have it by choice and he needs help to realize you leaving isn't the end of the world!
Friday, May 20, 2011
Grooming Your Dog
I asked for requests for blog topics, and shampoo came up, so here is a post dedicated to grooming your dog!
I am not a groomer, but one of my best friends is a grooming manager at a Petco in Oregon. All of us in the pet world have an opinion on grooming supplies. I won't go into details about clippers or things I don't know about, so we will stick with at-home grooming and what to look for in a professional groomer.
Shampoo
Shampoos are not all alike. Just as with human shampoo, it is important to look at the ingredients of the product and the quality. First important thing to know is to choose a shampoo that is soap free. All dog shampoos are. Soap free you say? What? Soap like Dawn or other dish soaps dry out a dog's skin and strip the oils from their coat. Dogs need oil in their coat to keep it looking shiny and beautiful. Stripping those oils will create a dull coat and dandruff. Next thing is to be cautious about using human products on dogs. These products are more harsh than a dog shampoo because they do have some drying element (we don't like our hair oily!). There are some people that advocate using a baby shampoo on dogs because it is more gentle, but baby shampoo is not concentrated and you would have to use quite a bit on your dog. Why not just buy a product made for dogs in the first place? It will save you money!
What dog shampoos NOT to buy
Don't buy shampoos that have ingredients you can't pronounce. The shampoo below is a product carried by Petco that is advertised as a tearless puppy shampoo and unfortunately has some rave reviews that it "smells good." It is too bad that people are simply choosing to stick with a shampoo due to the scent.
Cleansing agents (sodium laureth sulfate, disodium oleamido MEA sulfosuccinate, cocamidopropyl betaine), conditioner (cocamidediethanolamine), soothing agent (aloe vera gel) and fragrance.
As you can see, there is only ONE natural ingredient in this shampoo (aloe vera gel). We can do better!
Shampoos you should buy
My two all time favorite shampoo brands are Cloudstar and Earthbath.
Purified water, natural cleansers, colloidal oatmeal, aloe vera, almond and vanilla essences. All ingredients are natural, 100% biodegradable, and extra gentle on you and your pet.
Coconut shampoo base, aloe vera gel, essence of lavender, essence of mint, chamomile extract, sage extract, nettle extract, rosemary extract, wheat protein extract (natural deodorizing agent), tea tree oil, vitamin E and vitamin C.
There are lots of other small brands that have great natural shampoos, but sometimes they disappear due to lack of consumer awareness. The two mentioned above have been around for a while and will stick around. These shampoos smell fantastic, have a lingering scent on the dog for at least a week, are conditioning, concentrated and economical. There is no reason to buy the garbage once you try the natural brands.
Tools
Even if you don't cut your dog's hair at home, it is a good idea to have nail trimmers, grooming spray for in between baths, a brush or two and some ear cleaner.
Nails
I used to be a fan of the guillotine style nail trimmers, but have learned they get dull quite fast. Now I prefer the kind used most by groomers, what I call the "hedge trimmer" style.
Grooming Spay
A grooming spray is kind of like a doggie perfume to use in between baths when you want to freshen your dog up. I like the Cloudstar Buddy Spray due to the same reasons why I love their shampoo.
Brushes
The brand of the brush doesn't matter. The trouble most owners have with brushes is finding the right one for their dog's coat. Puppies are even more difficult because their coats will change before adulthood and owners want their pup to be used to brushing.
Dogs with short, horse-like fur do great with curry brushes, mitts, and shedding blades.
For curly coated dogs, like poodles, be sure to use a curved slicker brush and brush up to fluff the dog.
Ear Wash
When picking an ear wash, I look for one that is alcohol free to avoid any stinging. I am just looking for a wash that will clean the dog's ears. I tend to stick with a tea tree and aloe wash.
Now that we are done with basic supplies, let's go over what to look for in choosing a professional groomer.
Groomers
Not all groomers are created equal! There is not really a law that says groomers have to be certified, so basically you are looking for experience, ambiance of their facility and their grooming practices. There are three basic grooming "places." Pet store grooming, mobile grooming and privately owned grooming.
Pet Store Grooming
Pros: All the groomers are certified through a program that the pet store created. Any medical expenses incurred due to something happening at the groomers, will be covered by the pet store's insurance. These groomers are busy most of the time and see a wide range of dog breeds. Their prices are pretty competitive. Cons: The skill of each groomer can vary (as with any). The shampoo products used are not the highest quality (though you can bring your own). Your dog will be in an assembly line of sorts due to a high volume of clients. Dog is washed first, placed in a drying kennel, then grooming begins, back in the kennel, brought out later for a touch up. This can be a 5 hour ordeal. For some owners, this is great because they need to work, but some dogs can't tolerate the stress of the kennel, the noise level, the lack of opportunity to go potty.
Mobile Grooming
Mobile groomers have a truck/van outfitted with all their equipment and come straight to your house to groom your dog in the driveway! Pros: Your dog will be done straight through without any dogs or kenneling in between. If your dog is reactive, this may be a good route since there won't be other dogs in the truck. You can check in on your dog if you would like and you don't have to drive your dog/pick him up later. Cons: generally, this is expensive. The groomer needs to pay for gas and has her own overhead to worry about. Equipment can be high quality or low (same with skill), so do your homework!
Private Owner
This form of groomer is going to vary the most depending on if that groomer is working alone, or has a team of groomers under her. For the most part you can find private owner groomers that don't cage dogs, do them straight through and give you a reasonable price. Cons: the price will be higher than the pet store and these groomer's skill will vary the most since the investment in a truck and supplies is not as high and since they are not working for a retail store that requires certification. I have personally not been too happy with the cleanliness of the private owner places I have come in contact with.
So there you have it! Grooming questions answered!
Mel: (google is being weird about me commenting, so here is your answer)
I am not a groomer, but one of my best friends is a grooming manager at a Petco in Oregon. All of us in the pet world have an opinion on grooming supplies. I won't go into details about clippers or things I don't know about, so we will stick with at-home grooming and what to look for in a professional groomer.
Shampoo
Shampoos are not all alike. Just as with human shampoo, it is important to look at the ingredients of the product and the quality. First important thing to know is to choose a shampoo that is soap free. All dog shampoos are. Soap free you say? What? Soap like Dawn or other dish soaps dry out a dog's skin and strip the oils from their coat. Dogs need oil in their coat to keep it looking shiny and beautiful. Stripping those oils will create a dull coat and dandruff. Next thing is to be cautious about using human products on dogs. These products are more harsh than a dog shampoo because they do have some drying element (we don't like our hair oily!). There are some people that advocate using a baby shampoo on dogs because it is more gentle, but baby shampoo is not concentrated and you would have to use quite a bit on your dog. Why not just buy a product made for dogs in the first place? It will save you money!
What dog shampoos NOT to buy
Don't buy shampoos that have ingredients you can't pronounce. The shampoo below is a product carried by Petco that is advertised as a tearless puppy shampoo and unfortunately has some rave reviews that it "smells good." It is too bad that people are simply choosing to stick with a shampoo due to the scent.
Cleansing agents (sodium laureth sulfate, disodium oleamido MEA sulfosuccinate, cocamidopropyl betaine), conditioner (cocamidediethanolamine), soothing agent (aloe vera gel) and fragrance.
As you can see, there is only ONE natural ingredient in this shampoo (aloe vera gel). We can do better!
Shampoos you should buy
My two all time favorite shampoo brands are Cloudstar and Earthbath.
Purified water, natural cleansers, colloidal oatmeal, aloe vera, almond and vanilla essences. All ingredients are natural, 100% biodegradable, and extra gentle on you and your pet.
Coconut shampoo base, aloe vera gel, essence of lavender, essence of mint, chamomile extract, sage extract, nettle extract, rosemary extract, wheat protein extract (natural deodorizing agent), tea tree oil, vitamin E and vitamin C.
There are lots of other small brands that have great natural shampoos, but sometimes they disappear due to lack of consumer awareness. The two mentioned above have been around for a while and will stick around. These shampoos smell fantastic, have a lingering scent on the dog for at least a week, are conditioning, concentrated and economical. There is no reason to buy the garbage once you try the natural brands.
Tools
Even if you don't cut your dog's hair at home, it is a good idea to have nail trimmers, grooming spray for in between baths, a brush or two and some ear cleaner.
Nails
I used to be a fan of the guillotine style nail trimmers, but have learned they get dull quite fast. Now I prefer the kind used most by groomers, what I call the "hedge trimmer" style.
It is actually quite easy to cut nails once you get the hang of it. Simply put the dog's nail in the device and squeeze the two handles together. Of course, the tricky part is not to quick your dog and make her bleed. If the dog has white nails, you can see the vein (it is a red line) in the nail. DO NOT trim past that line. Nails bleed for a while unless you put some sort of blood coagulant on it. I use cornstarch because I am cheap, but there are commercial products that are less messy. If the dog has black nails, you just need to take little tiny pieces until you get an idea for how long that dog's vein is (kind of guess work, I know). Strangely enough my black dog, Lex, has white nails and Lucy has black nails. So I cut his nails first so I have an idea, and then cut hers the same length since I groom them at the same time a few times per month. Most dogs are going to need their nails done twice a month.
Grooming Spay
A grooming spray is kind of like a doggie perfume to use in between baths when you want to freshen your dog up. I like the Cloudstar Buddy Spray due to the same reasons why I love their shampoo.
Brushes
The brand of the brush doesn't matter. The trouble most owners have with brushes is finding the right one for their dog's coat. Puppies are even more difficult because their coats will change before adulthood and owners want their pup to be used to brushing.
Dogs with short, horse-like fur do great with curry brushes, mitts, and shedding blades.
Dogs with long silky HAIR (not fur) do great with a pin brush or comb. These breeds include Yorkies, Silkies, Wheaten Terriers, Afghan hounds.
Dogs with a long rough coat, like Lucy, need a furminator, slicker brush, sometimes an undercoat rake and a curry brush! I tend to use the zoom groom (the pink rubber brush above), on Lucy most of the time and use a slicker brush on her rear end and feathers and neck. Once a month I can use a furminator type brush to get out loose hair. If she were a shepherd or husky with a lot of butt hair, I would use an undercoat rake as well.
 |
| Furminator |
 |
| Rake |
 |
| Slicker |
For curly coated dogs, like poodles, be sure to use a curved slicker brush and brush up to fluff the dog.
Ear Wash
When picking an ear wash, I look for one that is alcohol free to avoid any stinging. I am just looking for a wash that will clean the dog's ears. I tend to stick with a tea tree and aloe wash.
Now that we are done with basic supplies, let's go over what to look for in choosing a professional groomer.
Groomers
Not all groomers are created equal! There is not really a law that says groomers have to be certified, so basically you are looking for experience, ambiance of their facility and their grooming practices. There are three basic grooming "places." Pet store grooming, mobile grooming and privately owned grooming.
Pet Store Grooming
Pros: All the groomers are certified through a program that the pet store created. Any medical expenses incurred due to something happening at the groomers, will be covered by the pet store's insurance. These groomers are busy most of the time and see a wide range of dog breeds. Their prices are pretty competitive. Cons: The skill of each groomer can vary (as with any). The shampoo products used are not the highest quality (though you can bring your own). Your dog will be in an assembly line of sorts due to a high volume of clients. Dog is washed first, placed in a drying kennel, then grooming begins, back in the kennel, brought out later for a touch up. This can be a 5 hour ordeal. For some owners, this is great because they need to work, but some dogs can't tolerate the stress of the kennel, the noise level, the lack of opportunity to go potty.
Mobile Grooming
Mobile groomers have a truck/van outfitted with all their equipment and come straight to your house to groom your dog in the driveway! Pros: Your dog will be done straight through without any dogs or kenneling in between. If your dog is reactive, this may be a good route since there won't be other dogs in the truck. You can check in on your dog if you would like and you don't have to drive your dog/pick him up later. Cons: generally, this is expensive. The groomer needs to pay for gas and has her own overhead to worry about. Equipment can be high quality or low (same with skill), so do your homework!
Private Owner
This form of groomer is going to vary the most depending on if that groomer is working alone, or has a team of groomers under her. For the most part you can find private owner groomers that don't cage dogs, do them straight through and give you a reasonable price. Cons: the price will be higher than the pet store and these groomer's skill will vary the most since the investment in a truck and supplies is not as high and since they are not working for a retail store that requires certification. I have personally not been too happy with the cleanliness of the private owner places I have come in contact with.
So there you have it! Grooming questions answered!
Mel: (google is being weird about me commenting, so here is your answer)
For a dog with hair, like yours, you could bathe him a few times a week if you really wanted to. A dog with fur, like most dogs, don't do well with a shampoo more than every other week. When my dogs used to herd sheep weekly, I would hose them (no shampoo), just to get the mud and sheep poo off and actually wash them every other week. Even with soap free shampoo, their fur gets brittle if washed too often.
Friday, May 13, 2011
Does your dog pull?
Walking a dog that drags you down the street is not very fun. Unfortunately, most of the dogs I see in training class have pulling problems. The dogs probably learned from an early age that pulling works.
Why do dogs pull?
Dogs pull because they usually don't know any better. They learn at an early age that when they pull, the owner follows and they get to their destination. It is an easy enough mistake to commit since most people don't want to rain on their puppy's parade. Other reasons dogs pull include a desire to explore, high prey drive, fear, or excitement. The more a dog practices his pulling skills, the better he gets at it and the harder it becomes to teach him not to pull.
Early Intervention
For puppies, it is easiest to teach the pup not to pull at all from the start! There are numerous methods on how to do this. First I would recommend the pup gets used to the equipment with zero pressure. That means letting him wear a collar or harness with no leash attached for at least a week. Then attach the leash and let the puppy drag it around the house without you on the other end. He needs to get used to the sensation of something clipped to him and not fear it. Next is where you have options on how to teach him to walk nicely.
Option #1: attach puppy to leash and sit down on the couch with clicker and treats (or use marker word in lieu of a clicker). When the puppy exhibits zero tension, click and treat. Continue this process for 5 minutes daily for a few days before attempting to stand in place, then take a few steps and gradually progress to walking. This doesn't teach the dog where the right position is for walking at your side (heeling), but it does teach the dog that lack of tension gets rewarded.
Option #2: without a leash (or with), lure the puppy to your heel side and click and treat like crazy! Then ignore the puppy and lure again. After a few times, puppy should not want to leave your side or will rush to your heel side when you pat your leg. Gradually you will reward for one step of heeling, then two, then three and so forth.
Option#3 Teach puppy to target an object like a spatula or wooden spoon and use that as a guide for where he needs to be.
Management Techniques
There are a number of things you can do that is borderline "training," so I call it management instead. These techniques apply to any dog that has a pulling issue no matter their age, and I myself use these techniques when my trained dogs need them.
1. The Stop and Go: your dog pulls, you stop, then you go, then stop if it happens again and repeat. Pros: this teaches your dog that he will not get anywhere if he pulls. Cons: this is a very tedious exercise and will not teach your dog to walk nicely if this is the only technique you use. Also, hounds or any dog motivated by scent will happily entertain themselves while you stop, so they do not truly see that stopping is not fun.
2. The Round and Round we Go: your dog pulls, you turn together and do a circle. This is very reminiscent of what people do when a horse pulls them. Pros: works great for dogs that get pleasure from stopping and works well for dogs that can't quite sit still and relax. Cons: will make you dizzy! Also, use alone will not teach your dog how to heel.
3. Taking back ground: your dog pulls, you take back the feet he pulled you. I use this technique the most with my dogs. In fact, I will take back the ground they took and have them sit, do a watch, get recomposed, then walk again. My dogs are herding dogs and we used to herd livestock weekly for almost 4 years (off and on). When they see things like geese, ducks and livestock animals, they admittedly get excited and pull. Pros: sends a clear message to the dog. Cons: can be pretty time consuming and difficult if your dog can't sit or watch you when asked.
Training
Option#2 and #3 in the puppy section, is what I would recommend for adult dogs that pull as well. I generally have owners not lure, but start their dog in the correct position with proper leash holding, picking which side and rewarding the dog for standing there nicely. Then we do one step, two, three, and progress more quickly to only rewarding every five steps, or ten etc. It is important that owners choose a clear word, and only use that word (heel, close, side, follow) when their dog is actually heeling nicely or when starting the exercise. I can't tell you how many times I hear people around the neighborhood saying "heel, heel, heel," like some sort of mantra. I will confess, that I used to do that with Miss Lucy myself. It is an easy trap to fall into. What are you supposed to do when your dog STOPS heeling though?
First assess why/what happened. Did you not reward at a high enough rate? Was your dog suddenly distracted? Did your session last too long?
I personally use a non-reward marker word such as "ah-ah" or "whoops" (not NO!) when my dog slips up which gets him back to my side and thinking again. Then I up my reward rate for the next 30 seconds or so. My heel would start like this: Lucy is sitting on my left side, I say "heel" and we move forward together. I reward every 20 feet with "good heel" and a treat. If she pulls, I say "ah-ah" and wait for her to get back with me while I stand still. If she does not get back with me, I would have her sit, re-focus her and start again with "heel."
Training Tools
For some dogs/owners the above may not be enough to get the dog started on proper walking because she has gone on pulling for far too long. Many trainers may say that no dog ever needs a tool and while that may be true for a trainer or someone with a ton of time on their hands, there are circumstances where a tool is very handy.
1. The dog is very large and stronger than the owner.
2. The dog has pulled for so long that she can't even get in the proper position to begin with.
3. The dog is not food motivated and has zero interest in working for the owner.
4. The owner wants to jump start teaching the dog to heel and will wean the dog off the tool eventually.
5. The owner doesn't mind if the dog is on a tool forever.
No-Pull Harnesses
There are several types of no-pull harnesses. There is the Easy Walk, by Premier, and a plethora of similar ones (Sensation, Halti Harness, Weiss Walky) and there is the Yuppy Puppy no-pull harness and similar ones. They have two very different designs as one clips in the front and the other from the back. The front clip harness (shown below), actually pivots your dog back to your side when he pulls. I find that owners of dogs over 6 months prefer this harness over the other type because it allows more control. It does have a few cons though: it can rub on the armpits, the sizing can be difficult for certain shaped dogs and it ONLY works in the heel position. If the dog is in front of you, and tension happens on the leash, your dog can do a nasty face plant.
The Yuppy Puppy harness tends to be more popular for younger dogs since it works in any position (in front, on the heel side, behind the owner). This device works by creating a sensation of tightness under the armpit when the dog pulls. The harness has a nice fleece lining, so it does not cause any abrasions, however, some dogs could really care less about this device.
Head Collars
Head collars like Gentle Leaders, Halti, Canny Collar, are devices that go around the dog's muzzle (much like a horse). The idea is that where the nose goes, the body follows. I have a pretty negative opinion about these. Many vets are now finding they cause neck damage and can cause damage to the eyes if it rides up and permanent hair loss from rubbing. Most dogs do not take to these right away and most owners are too lazy to counter-condition their dogs to like it. Also if the dog has any potential to re-direct excitement or aggression, that pulls the dog's teeth right into the owner's leg (I have seen it happen twice!). The nose loop devices are really only appropriate for calm dogs that need a reminder and if that is their demeanor then why bother with a device at all??
Neck Devices
Neck devices include regular collars, martingales, choke chains and pinch collars. Regular collars of course are not a tool designed for pullers, but are essential for hanging an ID tag on your dog. Martingale collars are a limited slip collar that disperses the pressure to the back of the neck. My dogs wear martingales. Without it, Lucy coughs and coughs with any minimal pressure on a regular collar. I recommend these for mild pullers.
I don't recommend choke chains EVER! They can cause severe trachea damage, cause a dog to pass out, and really aren't that effective. Many of us have seen an older lab or other breed on a choke chain pulling away. Makes me wonder why people go out and buy them.
There was a time that I would sometimes have a client use a pinch collar. There are more humane than a choke chain since they don't compress the air-way, and there are rubber caps available for the metal variety so the dog is not getting sticked by the collar, but getting pinched. My opinion now: these are never appropriate for reactive dogs, shy dogs, dogs under a year of age, senior dogs, small dogs etc. To me, there is only a very very small group of dogs that MAY use a pinch collar. A large rambunctious golden retriever that is 2 years old, friendly as can be, has zero training and is owned by a pregnant lady that tried all the other devices and is now faced with letting the dog waste away in the backyard because she can't walk him or take him to the pound. For that situation, I wouldn't judge her for using a pinch collar. For any other able bodied person that wants to take the time to train their dog, DON'T USE IT! It can cause skin damage, it can cause emotional damage. It really isn't training the dog to walk correctly either and your relationship with your dog is suddenly about the dog listening only out of avoidance of pain of the collar.
Now that I am off my soapbox..........
All of these devices will not teach your dog to walk nicely. You must couple training with management and devices (sometimes), to make it all mesh together. Having a dog that knows how to heel is important if you wish to take her anywhere. Your dog doesn't have to heel all the time when walking, In fact, my dogs heel, release to walk ahead, I tell them "steady" if they pull while in front. We have a system. They heel out of the house, run off leash on the trails, come when asked, heel when asked, and heel on the way back home. I would probably have them heel on a busy sidewalk, in a store or in a city square. Whereas, I would let them walk in front (nicely!) on a paved trail, at an on-leash park, around the neighborhood sometimes.
As always, comments are welcome! Please let me know if you have any questions on how to implement any of the training suggestions.
Why do dogs pull?
Dogs pull because they usually don't know any better. They learn at an early age that when they pull, the owner follows and they get to their destination. It is an easy enough mistake to commit since most people don't want to rain on their puppy's parade. Other reasons dogs pull include a desire to explore, high prey drive, fear, or excitement. The more a dog practices his pulling skills, the better he gets at it and the harder it becomes to teach him not to pull.
Early Intervention
For puppies, it is easiest to teach the pup not to pull at all from the start! There are numerous methods on how to do this. First I would recommend the pup gets used to the equipment with zero pressure. That means letting him wear a collar or harness with no leash attached for at least a week. Then attach the leash and let the puppy drag it around the house without you on the other end. He needs to get used to the sensation of something clipped to him and not fear it. Next is where you have options on how to teach him to walk nicely.
Option #1: attach puppy to leash and sit down on the couch with clicker and treats (or use marker word in lieu of a clicker). When the puppy exhibits zero tension, click and treat. Continue this process for 5 minutes daily for a few days before attempting to stand in place, then take a few steps and gradually progress to walking. This doesn't teach the dog where the right position is for walking at your side (heeling), but it does teach the dog that lack of tension gets rewarded.
Option #2: without a leash (or with), lure the puppy to your heel side and click and treat like crazy! Then ignore the puppy and lure again. After a few times, puppy should not want to leave your side or will rush to your heel side when you pat your leg. Gradually you will reward for one step of heeling, then two, then three and so forth.
Management Techniques
There are a number of things you can do that is borderline "training," so I call it management instead. These techniques apply to any dog that has a pulling issue no matter their age, and I myself use these techniques when my trained dogs need them.
1. The Stop and Go: your dog pulls, you stop, then you go, then stop if it happens again and repeat. Pros: this teaches your dog that he will not get anywhere if he pulls. Cons: this is a very tedious exercise and will not teach your dog to walk nicely if this is the only technique you use. Also, hounds or any dog motivated by scent will happily entertain themselves while you stop, so they do not truly see that stopping is not fun.
 |
| Owner is stopped, yet Beagle is STILL pulling! |
2. The Round and Round we Go: your dog pulls, you turn together and do a circle. This is very reminiscent of what people do when a horse pulls them. Pros: works great for dogs that get pleasure from stopping and works well for dogs that can't quite sit still and relax. Cons: will make you dizzy! Also, use alone will not teach your dog how to heel.
3. Taking back ground: your dog pulls, you take back the feet he pulled you. I use this technique the most with my dogs. In fact, I will take back the ground they took and have them sit, do a watch, get recomposed, then walk again. My dogs are herding dogs and we used to herd livestock weekly for almost 4 years (off and on). When they see things like geese, ducks and livestock animals, they admittedly get excited and pull. Pros: sends a clear message to the dog. Cons: can be pretty time consuming and difficult if your dog can't sit or watch you when asked.
Training
Option#2 and #3 in the puppy section, is what I would recommend for adult dogs that pull as well. I generally have owners not lure, but start their dog in the correct position with proper leash holding, picking which side and rewarding the dog for standing there nicely. Then we do one step, two, three, and progress more quickly to only rewarding every five steps, or ten etc. It is important that owners choose a clear word, and only use that word (heel, close, side, follow) when their dog is actually heeling nicely or when starting the exercise. I can't tell you how many times I hear people around the neighborhood saying "heel, heel, heel," like some sort of mantra. I will confess, that I used to do that with Miss Lucy myself. It is an easy trap to fall into. What are you supposed to do when your dog STOPS heeling though?
First assess why/what happened. Did you not reward at a high enough rate? Was your dog suddenly distracted? Did your session last too long?
I personally use a non-reward marker word such as "ah-ah" or "whoops" (not NO!) when my dog slips up which gets him back to my side and thinking again. Then I up my reward rate for the next 30 seconds or so. My heel would start like this: Lucy is sitting on my left side, I say "heel" and we move forward together. I reward every 20 feet with "good heel" and a treat. If she pulls, I say "ah-ah" and wait for her to get back with me while I stand still. If she does not get back with me, I would have her sit, re-focus her and start again with "heel."
Training Tools
For some dogs/owners the above may not be enough to get the dog started on proper walking because she has gone on pulling for far too long. Many trainers may say that no dog ever needs a tool and while that may be true for a trainer or someone with a ton of time on their hands, there are circumstances where a tool is very handy.
1. The dog is very large and stronger than the owner.
2. The dog has pulled for so long that she can't even get in the proper position to begin with.
3. The dog is not food motivated and has zero interest in working for the owner.
4. The owner wants to jump start teaching the dog to heel and will wean the dog off the tool eventually.
5. The owner doesn't mind if the dog is on a tool forever.
No-Pull Harnesses
There are several types of no-pull harnesses. There is the Easy Walk, by Premier, and a plethora of similar ones (Sensation, Halti Harness, Weiss Walky) and there is the Yuppy Puppy no-pull harness and similar ones. They have two very different designs as one clips in the front and the other from the back. The front clip harness (shown below), actually pivots your dog back to your side when he pulls. I find that owners of dogs over 6 months prefer this harness over the other type because it allows more control. It does have a few cons though: it can rub on the armpits, the sizing can be difficult for certain shaped dogs and it ONLY works in the heel position. If the dog is in front of you, and tension happens on the leash, your dog can do a nasty face plant.
The Yuppy Puppy harness tends to be more popular for younger dogs since it works in any position (in front, on the heel side, behind the owner). This device works by creating a sensation of tightness under the armpit when the dog pulls. The harness has a nice fleece lining, so it does not cause any abrasions, however, some dogs could really care less about this device.
Head Collars
Head collars like Gentle Leaders, Halti, Canny Collar, are devices that go around the dog's muzzle (much like a horse). The idea is that where the nose goes, the body follows. I have a pretty negative opinion about these. Many vets are now finding they cause neck damage and can cause damage to the eyes if it rides up and permanent hair loss from rubbing. Most dogs do not take to these right away and most owners are too lazy to counter-condition their dogs to like it. Also if the dog has any potential to re-direct excitement or aggression, that pulls the dog's teeth right into the owner's leg (I have seen it happen twice!). The nose loop devices are really only appropriate for calm dogs that need a reminder and if that is their demeanor then why bother with a device at all??
 |
| Scars on the nose from a Gentle Leader. |
Neck Devices
Neck devices include regular collars, martingales, choke chains and pinch collars. Regular collars of course are not a tool designed for pullers, but are essential for hanging an ID tag on your dog. Martingale collars are a limited slip collar that disperses the pressure to the back of the neck. My dogs wear martingales. Without it, Lucy coughs and coughs with any minimal pressure on a regular collar. I recommend these for mild pullers.
 |
| Martingale collar. Notice how it pulls from the back. |
I don't recommend choke chains EVER! They can cause severe trachea damage, cause a dog to pass out, and really aren't that effective. Many of us have seen an older lab or other breed on a choke chain pulling away. Makes me wonder why people go out and buy them.
There was a time that I would sometimes have a client use a pinch collar. There are more humane than a choke chain since they don't compress the air-way, and there are rubber caps available for the metal variety so the dog is not getting sticked by the collar, but getting pinched. My opinion now: these are never appropriate for reactive dogs, shy dogs, dogs under a year of age, senior dogs, small dogs etc. To me, there is only a very very small group of dogs that MAY use a pinch collar. A large rambunctious golden retriever that is 2 years old, friendly as can be, has zero training and is owned by a pregnant lady that tried all the other devices and is now faced with letting the dog waste away in the backyard because she can't walk him or take him to the pound. For that situation, I wouldn't judge her for using a pinch collar. For any other able bodied person that wants to take the time to train their dog, DON'T USE IT! It can cause skin damage, it can cause emotional damage. It really isn't training the dog to walk correctly either and your relationship with your dog is suddenly about the dog listening only out of avoidance of pain of the collar.
Now that I am off my soapbox..........
All of these devices will not teach your dog to walk nicely. You must couple training with management and devices (sometimes), to make it all mesh together. Having a dog that knows how to heel is important if you wish to take her anywhere. Your dog doesn't have to heel all the time when walking, In fact, my dogs heel, release to walk ahead, I tell them "steady" if they pull while in front. We have a system. They heel out of the house, run off leash on the trails, come when asked, heel when asked, and heel on the way back home. I would probably have them heel on a busy sidewalk, in a store or in a city square. Whereas, I would let them walk in front (nicely!) on a paved trail, at an on-leash park, around the neighborhood sometimes.
As always, comments are welcome! Please let me know if you have any questions on how to implement any of the training suggestions.
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